When we first visited the Angkor temples in 2001 there were no ATMs yet, and choice of accommodations were limited to expensive hotels to modest inns with fan rooms. When we came back in 2012 we were amazed at the growth of Siem Reap. The Angkor temples attract so many visitors that they seem to be in conflict with all the restoration work. Steps and rails were added to protect the stones from being worn away or damaged by all the foot traffic. Barriers were set up and they moved the closing time to 5 pm. As a result we could no longer watch the sun set over the Angkor Wat or Phnom Bakeng, the hilltop temple. We understand all of this is necessary, but also can’t help feeling lucky we were able to visit the ruins when there were less restrictions.